Vietnam

Heading South: Hue, Hoi An and Nha Trang

July 29, 2014 — 8 Comments

SMOTH- After the big city and bigger mountains of North Vietnam, it was time for Smonk to begin our descent South towards Saigon. But along the way we had some stops to make: Hue, the ancient imperial capital of Vietnam, Hoi An, a world heritage site (and premier tourist trap) and Nha Trang, the ultimate beach resort town. We had to buckle down for some long-haul train rides (including one spent sitting up all night in a crowded car) but the destinations were undoubtedly worth it.

Hue (pronounced “huh-way”): Hue was a destination steeped in historical significance. From the ancient imperial city —  once forbidden to outsiders — to bullet holes left from the Vietnam war, Hue really took us out of the present. While the city itself lacked the charm of Hanoi, we took advantage of the little gems we found, like a delicious nearby bakery we visited almost every day. We also rented some bikes to take a lovely (albeit hot) ride outside the city centre to visit the tomb of an old Vietnamese emperor, as well as a pine-treed religious site. Our accommodations in Hue were awesome, and we thoroughly enjoyed our stay.

Hoi An: Another historical city, bearing influences from Chinese and Japanese culture going back centuries, Hoi An has capitalized on its World Heritage Site status, and become a serious tourist town. Our guide book described it as a bit like a Vietnam exhibit in a Disney theme park, and it was that. Dozens of 24 hour tailors and trinket shops lined the streets, while people peddled their wares at us from every direction. But beneath the glitz, there was a truly unique history, and some beautiful Architecture to boot. That, combined with a broad unpopulated beach a mere 15 minute bike ride away made Hoi An a lovely stopover on our way South.

Nha Trang: Many travelers avoid Nha Trang if the can. An unapologetic resort town, it lacks the authenticity you see elsewhere in Vietnam. Further, it’s one of Russia’s most popular tourist destinations, and many shops, restaurants and hotels cater primarily to them, with everything from signs to menus written in Russian. However, since we had to stop here to catch our train to Saigon, Smonk decided to make the best of it. We had to sit up all night in a cramped train car to get to Nha Tran, and we were looking forward to some comfort. Thanks to a generous gift from Bonky’s Aunt Colleen and Uncle Wayne, we were able to afford a beautiful room in a beachside hotel, far above the standards of which we’ve become accustomed. Eschewing our usual culture consumption, we instead decided to unwind in the sun and surf. It was an awesome vacation… from our vacation.

While the trains and buses were far from enjoyable, the destinations made the whole trip worth it. Central Vietnam stands out as far more than just the break between North and South, it stands out as a trip highlight.

From palm trees to pine trees: Our sojourns in Hanoi and Sapa

July 21, 2014 — 6 Comments

SMONK – Northern Vietnam has proven remarkably kind to Smonk. From the hustle-and-bustle of Hanoi to the peaceful misty mountains of Sapa, it’s been nothing but pleasure for us and stands out as one of the best segments of our trip so far.

Sapa: Undoubtedly among the most beautiful places we’ve ever been, the sights of Sapa were literally overwhelming. Just looking out our hotel window showed a breathtaking view of the mountains, often shrouded in low hanging clouds. The temperature was much cooler than Hanoi, which made it perfect for the treks we did around the village. The surrounding area had several hill tribe villages, as well as tumbling waterfalls and dozens of rice farms. No matter where you looked everything just seemed a little too spectacular to be real.

One of the unique aspects of Spa was the interactions between the tourists and the local hill tribe people. Never have there been such impassioned sales people — often we would be swarmed by nearly a dozen women selling handicrafts when we stepped out of our hotel. While at times frustrating, it was neat talking to these women, some of whom joined us on our trek and helped us keep our balance on the slick trails. In the end there persistence paid off, for both members of Smonk ended up purchasing items.

Between the interesting interactions with the locals and the awe inspiring natural beauty, Sapa stands out as Smoth’s favorite location so far.

Hanoi: By the time we left Hanoi to head south toward Saigon, it felt like the city had become our home. Toward the lake was the bubble tea place we visited each day, and on the corner of our street the pho restaurant where we always grabbed lunch, hunched over miniature plastic stools. While at first the insane traffic appeared to be every motorcyclist’s total disregard for the well being of others, zooming into crowded intersections without slowing down or flinching, we soon became accustomed to the chaos of the street. While we assumed our role as the tourist, wandering through the old quarter, visiting an old prison turned into a museum, and navigating through students praying for good marks on their exams at the temple of literature, our true love for the city came from the ease through which we slipped into an everyday routine. It even became common to run into friends we had made in Halong and Sapa. While we are excited for the rest of this beautiful country, it is not without a little bit of regret that we left Hanoi.

There is one thing we will not miss: each morning around six or seven, a loudspeaker would sound through the street broadcasting the voice of stern woman who we assumed was reciting the daily dosage of Vietnamese communist propaganda. When we inquired it turned out she was just selling washing machines.

Cruisin’ through Ha Long Bay

July 13, 2014 — 9 Comments

SMOTH – After an incredibly hectic, hot and wholly-enjoyable few days in Hanoi, it was time to partake in a jewel of our trip we’d long been looking forward to – a two night cruise on the legendary Ha Long Bay in Vietnam.

Widely regarded as a natural wonder of the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Ha Long Bay is characterized by it’s towering rock islands jutting from its aquamarine water. One of the most popular tourist destinations in the country, Ha Long Bay is generally crisscrossed by dozens of cruises loaded to the brim with tourists seeking to soak in the sights. We were fortunate enough to be among them.

Glory Cruise was the company Bonky had booked, and it was clear that she made an excellent choice. From the comfortable pick up and bus ride to the bay to our enthusiastic tour guide to the wonderfully luxurious rooms, Glory Cruises impressed in nearly every way.

Our cruise itinerary was quite busy, with activities ranging from caving to kayaking (and of course caving in kayaks.) The first day took us into an enormous cave that was well lit and paved, but still left us awestruck by its enormous scale. After climbing down the steep stairs that lead to the cave, we were boated to a small white sand beach, where we soaked and swam until we were boated back to the mother ship for cocktails and dinner. We were able to meet interesting people from all over the world, including a couple of Welsh expats living in Qatar, and a group of rowdy, hard-drinking Australians.

The second day was spent largely on a smaller boat, which took us to water caves which we could kayak through, a pearl farm, and was going to take us to another beach, but was cancelled on account of rain. Watching the rock formations through the rain was beautiful regardless, and it was a great day. The final day was a quick trip to a floating fishing village, and a lovely brunch before heading back to shore and bussing home.

 

Cruising through and around a natural wonder of the world is something I won’t soon forget. While returning to Hanoi also promised adventure, I still find myself missing the startlingly blue waters of Ha Long Bay.